A Jewish Family's Summer Cookbook
Plus Croatian cabbage rolls, Nevada Basque traditions, and the cookbook of the month
Recipes Through the Year
Last year I had the wonderful opportunity to photograph a local Jewish family here in Portland whose Family Cookbook session had been postponed because of the pandemic. They had originally booked a package in December of 2019, planning to have their photo session in the summer of 2020 … and we can all guess how that panned out. Instead, July 2021 worked a bit better.
This was a great session for a number of reasons: They were able to incorporate multiple branches of their family—young cousins baked cookies in the first part of the session, and grandma showed up for the second half. A perfect example of dynamic family sessions—not everyone has to be present the entire time (three hours can be a lot). They also incorporated a lot of different dishes, some traditional Jewish recipes and a few family favorites, plus homemade pastrami! What I love about their finished cookbook is that they organized it by Jewish holidays, starting with Yom Kippur in the fall and incorporating traditional and contemporary dishes (like cast-iron apple pie) throughout. The session and photos of their final book are finally on the blog, and I encourage you to check it out to see what a typical session is like.
And if you are curious about how The Family Cookbook experience would work for your family, take a gander at our information guide.
A Croatian Medieval Celebration
On the first Sunday in August, the town of Sinj, Croatia, becomes a scene of equestrian revelry. Part of UNESCO’s list if intangible cultural heritage, the Sinjska Alka is a celebration of Croatia’s medieval heritage and a marker of a historical battle. Back when Croatia was a part of the Venetian empire, they army faced a battle against the mighty Ottoman forces in 1715, and against all odds defeated the larger group.
An “alka” is a small metal ring that hangs down over a track. A horseman then runs full gallop with a lance aiming to set it through the ring. This is a medieval knights’ game that goes back centuries, and Sinj was one of the only towns along the Adriatic still practicing these traditions well into the 19th century. Those who participate in the event consider it a great honor, and only men born in the Sinj area are allowed to compete.
For this week’s dish, I made Sinjski arambasi, a meat-filled cabbage roll, from the Croation travel blog Chasing the Donkey. There are many variations of these cabbage rolls, often called sarma, throughout the Balkans, but this particular one is specific to Sinj. Don’t skimp on the lemon zest—it adds a nice brightness to each bight, paired with the sourness of pickled cabbage leaves. The cinnamon and nutmeg also lend extra layers of flavor. If you can’t find kransky sausage (like me), using a smoked salami or kielbasa will do, and is still very tasty.
Exploring the Nevada Basque Lands
This week I’m driving around northern Nevada, my old stomping grounds from a previous job. I’m there for a number of reasons, but one is to work on a project I’ve been wanting to explore for a long time. The Great Basin, particularly Nevada, Idaho, and parts of California, harbors deep Basque roots. That’s surprising to most people—probably because they don’t think about the Great Basin very often. But all along the 1-80 corridor and beyond sit a number of old Basque boarding houses and bars that serve rib-sticking cowboy country Basque food. We’re talking lamb, lamb, and more lamb, spaghetti, green beans, delicious home-baked bread, and more, all devoured family style with your family, friends, or complete strangers.
Basque immigrants originally came to Nevada chasing the California gold rush, but they arrived a smidge too late, and took up sheep herding and other farm work in the desert. Another wave of Basque immigrants came to Nevada under a USA-Spain relations visa scheme with questionable motives. But their culture cemented itself in Nevada’s heart and most people who are familiar with the area are fond of the Basque traditions now embedded along the sparsely populated upper half of the state.
Follow along on Instagram as I hit up a few of my favorite Basque spots throughout the week.
Cookbook of the Month
Bottom of the Pot: Persian Recipes & Stories
I love library sales. I picked this cookbook up at my local state fair where the library was selling its overstock it amazing prices. But this book is definitely worth getting at full price. Naz Deravian integrates her family’s story through a wondrous collection of recipes that seem complex, but are actually straightforward and easily made, though some do need extra prep time. From explaining the importance of sabzi, a fresh herbal blend, to emphasizing giving yourself leniency when cooking Persian food, Deravian has put together a lovely collection. The photos are great, too. Texturally, there is a lot going on in each dish, but photographer Eric Wolfinger makes them visually pop without being overwhelming.